© 2019 Jimenez Bro's Customs 2065 Roberta St, Riverside, CA 92507, USA  (951) 784-4772

                                         

1 Crossmember Bolt on/ Weld In

2 Hats

2 Upper Control Arms/ Long, Med or Short/4-bolts 4-washer

2 Lower Control Arms

Brakes/Spindles/5x4.75, 6x6, 5x5, 5x4.5 Rotors/Caliber Brackets/Lines/Bearings/Bolts/Nuts

1 Power or Manual Steering Rack w bushing kit

Coil Overs/ 4-bolts 4-nuts (specific per order)

2 Shocks

Hardware for Shocks 4-bolts 4-nuts

2 Air Bags 

Hardware for Air Bags 4-bolts 4-washers

Hardware for Upper Control Arms/ 4-bolts 4-nuts

2 Tie Rods/ Long or Short

2 Crossmember Bolts 11’’ bolts 4-washers 2-nuts

Hat Hardware 14- 3/8’’ bolts 14-nuts

4 Ball Joints

                                                        

 

  1. Start the installation by supporting the vehicle with a minimum of 4 jack stands. Make sure that the vehicle is sitting like it would if it is on the ground, or slightly lower on the front.

  2. At this point you will begin to remove all of the old suspension components including the old crossmember from the front of the frame. Do not remove the Radiator crossmember. Make sure to clean frame before install.

  3. Locate the hole at the top of the frame (41-48 CAR 16 ¾ inches for  / 37-39 CAR 15 ½ inches and 49-54 CAR 10 ½ inches) Now locate the hole on the top of the hat provided to you in your kit. This hole should be a ½ inch and in the front of the hat.

  4. Place the hat on the frame and with a rubber mallet hit down the hat onto the frame while lining up the two holes we previously located. (Note that on some car kits you will be required to drill holes on the frame or slot to fit on the hats.) Once lined you can install with the hardware provided or weld as needed. We recommend to always weld in after bolting in.

  5. Now you are ready to line up the crossmember. Using a jack place the crossmember under the car and line up the holes and with hardware provided bolt together.

  6. Place the Upper control arms on hats and use hardware provided to bolt together. Repeat on opposite side. NOTE: THIS IS ONY A ROUGH ESTIMATE, SHIM PLACEMENT IS NEEDED TO GET YOU TO THE ALIGNMENT SHOP.

  7. Next you are going to install the Lower control arm to the crossmember. Left and Right Lower control arms can be distinguished by the lower shock weld of a small DOM tube on the bottom of the control arm that should be pointed towards the rear of the vehicle. Using the 11 inch bolt, nuts and washers that are provided secure in the Lower control arm. Insert ball joint into your Lower control arm. Repeat on opposite side.

  8. If needed place jack under the lower arm and raise enough to Install shocks using the hardware provided.

  9. Begin installing your drop spindles by placing spindles on the lower control arm ball joints and assemble ball joint nuts. Insert the upper control arm ball joint into Spindles and assemble nuts. Install the tie rod ends into the Spindle next and assemble the tie rod nuts. Now that the Spindles are held in place, tighten all the nuts and install the cotter pins.

  10. Install the rotors next, installing the new cotter pins in the spindle nuts. Using the hardware provided. Next Calipers are ready for install.

  11. At this point steer the Spindles from lock to lock with the suspension both up and down checking the brake lines for adequate length (make sure they are not pulled tight or lying against anything.

  12. Remember that even though this is a direct bolt on part, a Dropped Spindle is a different design and compatibility of mating parts are the responsibility of the installer, more shims may be needed.

  13. Air Bags are to be put on the hat bag plate and installed with the ½ inch bolts provided (lock tite is recommended)

  14. Last step is to put in your Power or Manual Rack. Bushings for either rack are supplied to you with your kit and Power Racks come with offset bushings. Manual Racks do not need these.

  15. When finished, take the vehicle to a competent professional alignment shop to have an alignment performed. This is not something you should be doing at home.

                                                             

  1. Start the installation by supporting the vehicle with a minimum of 4 jack stands. Make sure that the vehicle is sitting like it would if it is on the ground, or slightly lower on the front.

  2. At this point you will begin to remove all of the old suspension components including the old crossmember from the front of the frame. Do not remove the Radiator crossmember. Make sure to clean frame before install.

  3. Locate the hole at the top of the frame (41-48 CAR 16 ¾ inches for  37-39 CAR 15 ½ inches and for 49-54 CAR 10 ½ inches) Now locate the hole on the top of the hat provided to you in your kit. This hole should be a ½ inch and in the front of the hat.

  4. Place the hat on the frame and with a rubber mallet hit down the hat onto the frame while lining up the two holes we previously located. (Note that on some car kits you will be required to drill holes on the frame or slot to fit on the hats.) Once lined you can install with the hardware provided or weld as needed. We recommend to always weld in after bolting in.

  5. Now you are ready to line up the crossmember. Using a jack place the crossmember under the car and line up the holes and with hardware provided bolt together.

  6. Place the Upper control arms on hats and use hardware provided to bolt together. Repeat on opposite side. NOTE: THIS IS ONY A ROUGH ESTIMATE, SHIM PLACEMENT IS NEEDED TO GET YOU TO THE ALIGNMENT SHOP.

  7. Next you are going to install the Lower control arm to the crossmember. Left and Right Lower control arms can be distinguished by the lower shock weld of a small DOM tube on the bottom of the control arm that should be pointed towards the rear of the vehicle. Using the 11 inch bolt, nuts and washers that are provided secure in the Lower control arm. Insert ball joint into your Lower control arm. Repeat on opposite side.

  8. If needed place jack under the lower arm and raise enough to Install shocks using the hardware provided.

  9. Begin installing your drop spindles by placing spindles on the lower control arm ball joints and assemble ball joint nuts. Insert the upper control arm ball joint into Spindles and assemble nuts. Install the tie rod ends into the Spindle next and assemble the tie rod nuts. Now that the Spindles are held in place, tighten all the nuts and install the cotter pins.

  10. Install the rotors next, installing the new cotter pins in the spindle nuts. Using the hardware provided. Next Calipers are ready for install.

  11. At this point steer the Spindles from lock to lock with the suspension both up and down checking the brake lines for adequate length (make sure they are not pulled tight or lying against anything.

  12. Remember that even though this is a direct bolt on part, a Dropped Spindle is a different design and compatibility of mating parts are the responsibility of the installer, more shims may be needed.

  13. Air Bags are to be put on the hat bag plate and installed with the ½ inch bolts provided (lock tite is recommended)

  14. Last step is to put in your Power or Manual Rack. Bushings for either rack are supplied to you with your kit and Power Racks come with offset bushings. Manual Racks do not need these.

  15. When finished, take the vehicle to a competent professional alignment shop to have an alignment performed. This is not something you should be doing at home.

                                                             

  1. Start the installation by supporting the vehicle with a minimum of 4 jack stands. Make sure that the vehicle is sitting like it would if it is on the ground, or slightly lower on the front.

  2. At this point you will begin to remove all of the old suspension components including the old crossmember from the front of the frame. Do not remove the Radiator crossmember. Make sure to clean frame before install.

  3. Locate the hole at the top of the frame (41-48 CAR 16 ¾ inches for  37-39 CAR 15 ½ inches and for 49-54 CAR 10 ½ inches) Now locate the hole on the top of the hat provided to you in your kit. This hole should be a ½ inch and in the front of the hat.

  4. Place the hat on the frame and with a rubber mallet hit down the hat onto the frame while lining up the two holes we previously located. (Note that on some car kits you will be required to drill holes on the frame or slot to fit on the hats.) Once lined you can install with the hardware provided or weld as needed. We recommend to always weld in after bolting in.

  5. Now you are ready to line up the crossmember. Using a jack place the crossmember under the car and line up the holes and with hardware provided bolt together.

  6. Place the Upper control arms on hats and use hardware provided to bolt together. Repeat on opposite side. NOTE: THIS IS ONY A ROUGH ESTIMATE, SHIM PLACEMENT IS NEEDED TO GET YOU TO THE ALIGNMENT SHOP.

  7. Next you are going to install the Lower control arm to the crossmember. Left and Right Lower control arms can be distinguished by the lower shock weld of a small DOM tube on the bottom of the control arm that should be pointed towards the rear of the vehicle. Using the 11 inch bolt, nuts and washers that are provided secure in the Lower control arm. Insert ball joint into your Lower control arm. Repeat on opposite side.

  8. If needed place jack under the lower arm and raise enough to Install shocks using the hardware provided.

  9. Begin installing your drop spindles by placing spindles on the lower control arm ball joints and assemble ball joint nuts. Insert the upper control arm ball joint into Spindles and assemble nuts. Install the tie rod ends into the Spindle next and assemble the tie rod nuts. Now that the Spindles are held in place, tighten all the nuts and install the cotter pins.

  10. Install the rotors next, installing the new cotter pins in the spindle nuts. Using the hardware provided. Next Calipers are ready for install.

  11. At this point steer the Spindles from lock to lock with the suspension both up and down checking the brake lines for adequate length (make sure they are not pulled tight or lying against anything.

  12. Remember that even though this is a direct bolt on part, a Dropped Spindle is a different design and compatibility of mating parts are the responsibility of the installer, more shims may be needed.

  13. Air Bags are to be put on the hat bag plate and installed with the ½ inch bolts provided (lock tite is recommended)

  14. Last step is to put in your Power or Manual Rack. Bushings for either rack are supplied to you with your kit and Power Racks come with offset bushings. Manual Racks do not need these.

  15. When finished, take the vehicle to a competent professional alignment shop to have an alignment performed. This is not something you should be doing at home.

                  

 

 

  1. FIRST MAKE SURE THAT THE TRUCK IS ON 4 JACK STANDS. THE TRUCK SHOULD BE SITTING AT THE SAME ANGLE THAT IT DOES ON THE GROUND, OR SLIGHTLY LOWER IN THE FRONT.

  2. BEGIN NY REMOVING ALL THE STOCK SUSPENSION COMPONENTS FROM THE FRAME. THE FRONT CROSSMEMBER SHOULD BE LEFT IN PLACE.

  3. AT THIS POINT, YOU WILL USE THE HAT AS A GUIDE FOR BOXING. FIRST FIND THE REFERENCE HOLE AT THE BACK OF THE HAT INBETWEEN THE SHOCK MOUNT AND THE CROSS-SHAFT PLATE AND LINE IT UP WITH THE CURVE OF THE FRAME WHEN PUTTING IT ON. ONCE THIS REFERENCE HOLE IS LINED UP WITH THE HOLE ON THE FRAME CLAMP THE HAT DOWN AND TACK WELD IT IN.

  4. NEXT YOU WILL BE BOXING THE FRAME. USING THE PLATES THAT ARE PROVIDED IN YOUR KIT PLACE THEM UP AGAINST THE REAR OF THE RADIATOR CROSSMEMBER. YOU CAN GRIND THE INSIDE EDGES OF THE FRAME BUT NOT TOO MUCH AS THE RAILS WILL BECOME TOO THIN. THE PLATES CAN SET ON THE LOWER FLANGE OF THE RAILS IN THE FRONT, BUT MOST OF THE FLANGE WILL BE TRIMMED AWAY FOR THE RACK AND CROSSMEMBER CLEARANCE.

  5. YOU CAN NOW INSTALL THE NEW CROSSMEMBER. MEASURE STRAIGHT BACK 18-1/8’’ FROM THE CENTER OF THE FRONT SPRING SHACKLE HOLE IN THE FRAME AND MAKE A VERTICAL LINE. THIS IS THE CENTER OF THE CROSSMEMBER AND THE SPINDLE CENTERLINE.

  6. TRAIL FIT THE NEW CROSSMEMBER UP INTO THE RAILS CENTERING IT IN THE SCRIBED SPINDLE CENTERLINE THAT YOU SCRIBED EARLIER. IF IT DOES NOT QUITE FIT INTO THE FRAME SLIGHTLY GRIND THE UPRIGHT ENDS OF THE CROSSMEMBER UNTIL YOU CAN FIT IT INTO PLACE. MAKE SURE THAT THE CROSSMEMBER IS FULLY SEATED ON THE UNDERSIDE OF THE FRAME. AT THIS TIME, YOU SHOULD TACK WELD IT INTO PLACE. THEN DOUBLE CHECK YOUR WORK AND LOCATION AND PROCEED TO FULLY WELD INTO PLACE.

 

 

 

  1. PLACE THE UPPER CONTROL ARMS ON HATS AND USE HARDWARE PROVIDED TO BOLT TOGETHER. REPEAT ON OPPOSITE SIDE. NOTE: THIS IS ONY A ROUGH ESTIMATE, SHIM PLACEMENT IS NEEDED TO GET YOU TO THE ALIGNMENT SHOP.

  2. NEXT YOU ARE GOING TO INSTALL THE LOWER CONTROL ARM TO THE CROSSMEMBER. LEFT AND RIGHT LOWER CONTROL ARMS CAN BE DISTINGUISHED BY THE LOWER SHOCK WELD (SMALL TUBE) ON THE BOTTOM OF THE CONTROL ARM THAT SHOULD BE POINTED TOWARDS THE REAR OF THE VEHICLE. USING THE 11 INCH BOLT, NUTS AND WASHERS THAT ARE PROVIDED SECURE IN THE LOWER CONTROL ARM. INSERT BALL JOINT INTO YOUR LOWER CONTROL ARM. REPEAT ON OPPOSITE SIDE.

  3. IF NEEDED PLACE JACK UNDER THE LOWER ARM AND RAISE ENOUGH TO INSTALL SHOCKS USING THE HARDWARE PROVIDED.

  4. AT THIS POINT YOU CAN CREATE THE CNOTCH FOR THE RACK. (BOXING PLATES PROVIDED ARE ALREADY MEASURED OUT TO HELP) MEASURE FORWARD 4-5/8’’ FRON THE CENTERLINE AND UP 1-1/2’’AND MAKE A MARK. NOW DRAW A 2-1/8’’ RADIUS USING YOUR MARK AS THE TOP OF THE RADIUS. TRIM OUT THE MATERIAL MARKED LEAVING ABOUT 1/8’’ TO WORK WITH, AND THEN TRY THE RACK AND THE CNOTCH FILLER PIECE. GRIND THE NOTCH FOR FINSH AND LOCATION. REMOVE THE RACK AND CONTINUE TO THE NEXT STEP.

  5. BEGIN INSTALLING YOUR DROP SPINDLES BY PLACING SPINDLES ON THE LOWER CONTROL ARM BALL JOINTS AND ASSEMBLE BALL JOINT NUTS. INSERT THE UPPER CONTROL ARM BALL JOINT INTO SPINDLES AND ASSEMBLE NUTS. INSTALL THE TIE ROD ENDS INTO THE SPINDLE NEXT AND ASSEMBLE THE TIE ROD NUTS. NOW THAT THE SPINDLES ARE HELD IN PLACE, TIGHTEN ALL THE NUTS AND INSTALL THE COTTER PINS.

  6. INSTALL THE ROTORS NEXT, INSTALLING THE NEW COTTER PINS IN THE SPINDLE NUTS. USING THE HARDWARE PROVIDED. NEXT CALIPERS ARE READY FOR INSTALL.

  7. AT THIS POINT STEER THE SPINDLES FROM LOCK TO LOCK WITH THE SUSPENSION BOTH UP AND DOWN CHECKING THE BRAKE LINES FOR ADEQUATE LENGTH (MAKE SURE THEY ARE NOT PULLED TIGHT OR LYING AGAINST ANYTHING.

  8. REMEMBER THAT EVEN THOUGH THIS IS A DIRECT BOLT ON PART, A DROPPED SPINDLE IS A DIFFERENT DESIGN AND COMPATIBILITY OF MATING PARTS ARE THE RESPONSIBILITY OF THE INSTALLER, MORE SHIMS MAY BE NEEDED.

  9. AIR BAGS ARE TO BE PUT ON THE HAT BAG PLATE AND INSTALLED WITH THE ½ INCH BOLTS PROVIDED (LOCK TITE IS RECOMMENDED)

  10. LAST STEP IS TO PUT IN YOUR POWER OR MANUAL RACK. BUSHINGS FOR EITHER RACK ARE SUPPLIED TO YOU WITH YOUR KIT AND POWER RACKS COME WITH OFFSET BUSHINGS. MANUAL RACKS DO NOT NEED THESE.

  11. WHEN FINISHED, TAKE THE VEHICLE TO A COMPETENT PROFESSIONAL ALIGNMENT SHOP TO HAVE AN ALIGNMENT PERFORMED. THIS IS NOT SOMETHING YOU SHOULD BE DOING AT HOME.

                                                 BOLT IN APPLICATIONS

 

  1. LOCATE HOLES ON TOP OF HAT PROVIDED IN KIT, HOLE LOCATED BY CROSS SHAFT BRACKET MOUNT ARE USED ON HATS AND WILL GUIDE YOU.

  2. ONCE HOLE IS LOCATED ALLIGN HOLE WITH TOP HAT, CLAMP HAT DOWN TIGHT TO FRAME AND USING A HOLE PUNCH TO MARK ALL HOLES FOR DRILLING.

  3. WE RECOMMEND USING A SMALLER BIT TO DRILL THEN STEP UP TO A 9/16 DRILL BIT.

  4. NOW THAT ALL HOLES ARE DRILLED YOU BAY NOW BOLT TOGETHER KIT.

                                           1955-59 CHEVY PICK UP

 

 

  1. FIRST MAKE SURE THAT THE TRUCK IS ON 4 JACK STANDS. THE TRUCK SHOULD BE SITTING AT THE SAME ANGLE THAT IT DOES ON THE GROUND, OR SLIGHTLY LOWER IN THE FRONT.

 

  1. BEGIN NY REMOVING ALL THE STOCK SUSPENSION COMPONENTS FROM THE FRAME. THE FRONT CROSSMEMBER SHOULD BE LEFT IN PLACE.

 

  1. BOXING PLATES ARE NEXT. THE FLANGE ON THE LEFT RAIL SHOULD BE FLATTENED WHERE THE OLD STEERING BOX WAS MOUNTED AND MADE STRAIGHT AND TRUE. THE BOXING PLATES ARE TO STAND SQUARE ON THE LOWER RAIL FLANGE. THE FRAME RAIL TOP EDGES SHOULD BE GROUND STRAIGHT SO THE BOXING PLATE FITS TIGHT TO THE RAIL EDGES. SO NOT GRIND MORE THAN WHAT IS SUGGESTED OFF THE RAILS. THE BOXINGPLATES ARE THEN CLAMPED IN PLACE, WITH THE FRONT END OF THE PLATES AGAINST THE BACK OF THE STOCK CROSSMEMBER. MAKE SURE TO WELD IN SMALL SECTIONS AT A TIME. ALSO MAKE SURE TO CLAMP A BAR ACROSS THE RAILS TO HOLD THEM IN PLACE WHILE WELDING. WHEN DONE IT IS BEST TO GRIND AS SMOOTH AS POSSIBLE.

 

 

  1. MEASURE BACK 20 7/8’’ FROM THE CENTER OF THE FRONT SHACKLE HOLE IN THE FRAME AND SCRIBE A LINE AROUND THE RAIL, THIS LINE IS THE SPINDLE CENTERLINE.

 

  1. TRAIL FIT THE NEW CROSSMEMBER UP INTO THE RAILS CENTERING IT IN THE SCRIBED SPIDLE CENTERLINE THAT YOU SCRIBED EARLIER. IF IT DOES NOT QUITE FIT INTO THE FRAME SLIGHTLY GRIND THE UPRIGHT ENDS OF THE CROSSMEMBER UNTIL YOU CAN FIT IT INTO PLACE. MAKE SURE THAT THE CROSSMEMBER IS FULLY SEATED ON THE UNDERSIDE OF THE FRAME. AT THIS TIME, YOU SHOULD TACK WELD IT INTO PLACE. THEN DOUBLE CHECK YOUR WORK AND LOCATION AND PROCEED TO FULLY WELD INTO PLACE.

 

 

 

  1. YOU MAY ALSO NEED TO TRIM A PORTION OF THE REAR STOCK CROSSMEMBER FOR RACK CLEARANCE. WHEN THE RACK FITS IN PLACE REMOVE THE RACK AND WELD THE C-NOTCH PIECES IN PLACE THEN AGAIN GRIND SMOOTH.

  2. PLACE THE UPPER CONTROL ARMS ON HATS AND USE HARDWARE PROVIDED TO BOLT TOGETHER. REPEAT ON OPPOSITE SIDE. NOTE: THIS IS ONY A ROUGH ESTIMATE, SHIM PLACEMENT IS NEEDED TO GET YOU TO THE ALIGNMENT SHOP.

  3. NEXT YOU ARE GOING TO INSTALL THE LOWER CONTROL ARM TO THE CROSSMEMBER. LEFT AND RIGHT LOWER CONTROL ARMS CAN BE DISTINGUISHED BY THE LOWER SHOCK WELD (SMALL TUBE) ON THE BOTTOM OF THE CONTROL ARM THAT SHOULD BE POINTED TOWARDS THE REAR OF THE VEHICLE. USING THE 11 INCH BOLT, NUTS AND WASHERS THAT ARE PROVIDED SECURE IN THE LOWER CONTROL ARM. INSERT BALL JOINT INTO YOUR LOWER CONTROL ARM. REPEAT ON OPPOSITE SIDE.

  4. IF NEEDED PLACE JACK UNDER THE LOWER ARM AND RAISE ENOUGH TO INSTALL SHOCKS USING THE HARDWARE PROVIDED.

  5. BEGIN INSTALLING YOUR DROP SPINDLES BY PLACING SPINDLES ON THE LOWER CONTROL ARM BALL JOINTS AND ASSEMBLE BALL JOINT NUTS. INSERT THE UPPER CONTROL ARM BALL JOINT INTO SPINDLES AND ASSEMBLE NUTS. INSTALL THE TIE ROD ENDS INTO THE SPINDLE NEXT AND ASSEMBLE THE TIE ROD NUTS. NOW THAT THE SPINDLES ARE HELD IN PLACE, TIGHTEN ALL THE NUTS AND INSTALL THE COTTER PINS.

  6. INSTALL THE ROTORS NEXT, INSTALLING THE NEW COTTER PINS IN THE SPINDLE NUTS. USING THE HARDWARE PROVIDED. NEXT CALIPERS ARE READY FOR INSTALL.

  7. AT THIS POINT STEER THE SPINDLES FROM LOCK TO LOCK WITH THE SUSPENSION BOTH UP AND DOWN CHECKING THE BRAKE LINES FOR ADEQUATE LENGTH (MAKE SURE THEY ARE NOT PULLED TIGHT OR LYING AGAINST ANYTHING.

  8. REMEMBER THAT EVEN THOUGH THIS IS A DIRECT BOLT ON PART, A DROPPED SPINDLE IS A DIFFERENT DESIGN AND COMPATIBILITY OF MATING PARTS ARE THE RESPONSIBILITY OF THE INSTALLER, MORE SHIMS MAY BE NEEDED.

  9. AIR BAGS ARE TO BE PUT ON THE HAT BAG PLATE AND INSTALLED WITH THE ½ INCH BOLTS PROVIDED (LOCK TITE IS RECOMMENDED)

  10. LAST STEP IS TO PUT IN YOUR POWER OR MANUAL RACK. BUSHINGS FOR EITHER RACK ARE SUPPLIED TO YOU WITH YOUR KIT AND POWER RACKS COME WITH OFFSET BUSHINGS. MANUAL RACKS DO NOT NEED THESE.

  11. WHEN FINISHED, TAKE THE VEHICLE TO A COMPETENT PROFESSIONAL ALIGNMENT SHOP TO HAVE AN ALIGNMENT PERFORMED. THIS IS NOT SOMETHING YOU SHOULD BE DOING AT HOME.

 

                                    BOLT IN APPLICATIONS

 

  1. LOCATE HOLES ON TOP OF HAT PROVIDED IN KIT, HOLE LOCATED BY CROSS SHAFT BRACKET MOUNT ARE USED ON HATS AND WILL GUIDE YOU. MEASURE FRAME BY PULLING TAPE FROM FRONT TOWARDS BACK AND HOLE WILL BE 27 “

  2. ONCE HOLE IS LOCATED ALLIGN HOLE WITH TOP HAT , CLAMP HAT DOWN TIGHT TO FRAME AND USING A HOLE PUNCH TO MARK ALL HOLES FOR DRILLING.

  3. WE RECOMMEND USING A SMALLER BIT TO DRILL THEN STEP UP TO A 9/16 DRILL BIT.

  4. NOW THAT ALL HOLES ARE DRILLED YOU BAY NOW BOLT TOGETHER KIT.

 

 

 

AS A REMINDER SOME YEARS REQUIRE A 2’’ EXTENTION FOR YOUR RACK AS IT HAS A 4’’ WIDER TRACK WIDTH THAN A MUSTANG II

                                     INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS FOR JBC FORD SHOEBOX FRAME STUB

 

  1.  START THE INSTALLATION BY SUPPORTING THE VEHICLE WITH A MINIMUM OF 4 JACK STANDS. MAKE SURE THAT THE VEHICLE IS SITTING LIKE IT WOULD IF IT IS ON THE GROUND.

  2. AT THIS POINT YOU WILL BEGIN TO REMOVE ALL OF THE OLD SUSPENSION COMPONENTS.

  3. NEXT LOCATE THE FRONT RADIATOR CORE SUPPORT MOUNT HOLE. USE A PLUMB BOB TO MARK IT’S POSTION. (USE THE GARAGE FLOOR OR A MARKER TO IDENTIFY THESE EXACT SPOTS LATER)

  4. AFTER THIS IS MARKED, YOU NEED TO FIND THE HEIGHT FROM THE FLOOR UP TO THE CORE SUPPORT HOLE. THIS MEASUREMENT NEEDS TO BE MARKED NEXT TO THE PREVIUOSLY MADE MARK. THE POSITION OF THESE MARKS CONTROLS THE FIT OF THE ENTIRE FRONT SHEET METAL ASSEMBLY, SO PAY VERY CLOSE ATTENTION TO THESE MEASUREMENTS.

  5. YOU ALSO NEED THE PLUMB BOB TO DEFINE THE POSTION OF THE FRONT BUMPER HOLES, RUNNING THE LINE THROUGH THE CENTER OF BOTH THE FRONT AND REAR BUMPER BOLTHOLES.

  6. THE DISTANCE BETWEEN THE FLOOR AND EACH OF THE FOUR BUMPER BOTHOLES (TWO ON THE DRIVERS SIDE AND TWO ON THE PASSANGER SIDE) IS ALSO NOTED WITH AN IDENTIFIER AND MEASURED FROM THE FLOOR UP.

  7. SCRIBE A LINE ON TOP OF THE FRAME 3’’ FORWARD OF THE FORWARD-MOST BODY MOUNT BOLT. BE SURE TO ALWAYS MEASURE FROM THE CENTER OF THE BOLT.

  8. TRANSFER THIS LINE TO THE SIDE OF THE FRAME USING THE PLUMB BOB CREATING A VERTICAL CUT LINE FOR WHEN THE FRONT SECTION OF THE ORIGINAL STUB IS REMOVED.

 

AT THIS POINT DOUBLE CHECK ALL MEASUREMENTS AND MARK EVERYTHING IN STEPS 4-9

 

  1.  USE A PLASMA CUTTER AND STEEL GUIDE FOR THE ACTUAL CUTS. A TORCH OR RECIPROCATING SAW CAN ALSO CAN BE USED BUT CARE MUST BE TAKEN TO MAKE THE CUTS A STRAIGHT AND CLEAN AS POSSIBLE.

  2. AT THIS POINT MAKE SURE TO HAVE SOME ONE STEADY THE FRONTEND WITH A FLOOR JACK WHILE MAKING THE FINAL CUTS. REMOVE THE OLD FRAME SECTION IN ONE PIECE.

  3. BE SURE TO CLEAN UP THE SLAG, STRAIGHTEN THE CUT AND REMOVE ANY PAINT OR RUST IN PREPARATION FOR FITTING AND WELDING OF THE NEW STUB. TAP OUT ANY SMALL DENTS ON THE LIP.

  4. TACK WELD THE PROVIDED TABS INSIDE THE FRAME ENDS TO REINFORCE THE WELD AREA AND TO SLEEVE THE JOINT. DO NOT DO A FULL WELD! YOU CAN NOW SET THE NEW FRAME STUB IN PLACE, AGAIN DO NOT DO A FULL WELD.

  5. NOW IS THE TIME TO DOUBLE CHECK ALL OF THE PREVIOUS MEASUREMENTS THAT WERE MADE, MAKING SURE EVERYTHING LINES UP. IF IT DOES NOT FIT CORRECTLY YOU MAY HAVE TO TRIM MORE OFF THE FRAME.

  6. A FLOOR JACK IS BEST TO USE ALONG WITH LEVELERS TO DOUBLE CHECK EVERY MEASUREMENT BEFORE EVERYTHING GETS TACK-WELDED.

  7. ONCE EVERYTHING LINES UP CORRECTLY WITH TACK WELDS IN PLACE YOU CAN BEGIN TO DO FULL WELDS. AFTER THE WELDS ARE COMPLETE GRIND TO SMOOTH THEM OUT.

  8. LAST YOU CAN NOW MOUNT THE NEW SUSPENSION COMPONENTS TO THE STUB.

  9. WHEN FINISHED, TAKE THE VEHICLE TO A COMPETENT PROFESSIONAL ALIGNMENT SHOP TO HAVE AN ALIGNMENT PERFORMED. THIS IS NOT SOMETHING YOU SHOULD BE DOING AT HOME.

                                                                   

1 Crossmember

1 Lower Bag Bar

1 Upper Shock Bar

1 Panhard Bar

Step Notch Kit  2- straps 2- hoops 4- notches

Shoebox Notch (specific per order)

2 Air Bags/Hardware 6-bolts 6-washers

2 Shocks/Hardware 2- bolts 2- nuts 2- bolts 2- nuts

Coil Overs/Hardware 4- spacers 2-bolts (specific per order)

2 Jonny Joints/Hardware 2- bolts 2- nuts 2- jam nuts

2 Upper Bag Bracket

2 Pan Hard bar Tabs

2 Shock Tabs

2 Axel Perch/Hardware (3 ½) 4-bolts 4- nuts

Lower Bag Bar Hardware 4- bolts 8- washers 4 -nuts

1 Panhard Bar Bracket  1-bolt 1- nut

1 Heim Joint & 1 bushing for Panhard bar

2 Link

                                                                   

                                                               

1. BEFORE REMOVING ORIGINAL REAR END MARK THE CENTER OF YOUR REAR END AXEL ON YOUR FRAME, THIS IS GOING TO PREP YOU FOR YOUR STEP NOTCH INSTALL. BEGIN BY REMOVING ALL OF YOUR REAR END OFF THE VEHICLE JUST LEAVING THE FRAME. LEVEL THE FRAME SIDE TO SIDE AND FRONT TO BACK. MAKE SURE HAVE A CLEAN AND SAFE WORK SPACE AND SET ASIDE THE REAR END.

2. FIRST STEP TO INSTALLING A STEP NOTCH OR C NOTCH IS FINDING YOUR CENTERLINE (THIS WAS IN STEP ONE). YOU WILL HAVE 4 NOTCHES 2 HOOPS AND 2 STRAPS IN YOUR KIT PROVIDED ALL RANGING IN SIZE FRONT 5-9 INCHES DEPENDING ON ORDER SPECIFICATIONS. TO BEGIN ON MOCKING UP NOTCH HEIGHT, PLACE A PIECE OF THE NOTCH ON THE SIDE OF THE FRAME AND MARKING WHERE IT NEEDS TO BE CUT ON THE OPPOSITE SIDE (SEE FIG 1) NOTE: THE STEP NOTCHES ARE A UNIVERSAL PIECE AND WILL NEED TO BE TRIMMED TO FIT YOUR SPECIFIC VEHICLE. AFTER TRIMMING THE NOTCH TO THE DESIRED HEIGHT, SET THE NOTCHES IN PLACE ON THE FRAME AND CENTER THEM WITH THE PREVIOUSLY MARKED CENTERLINE OF YOUR OLD AXEL, TALLEST SIDE POINTING TOWARDS THE REAR OF THE VEHICLE (FIG. 2). ONCE CENTERED, PLACE A CLAMP ON THE NOTCHES TO HOLD IN PLACE, THEN USE A LEVEL ON THE BACK PART OF THE NOTCH TO MAKE SURE THEY ARE LEVELED ON TOP AS WELL AS FRONT TO BACK, THEN TACK WELD IN (FIG.3). PLACE THE TOP STRAP ON TO THE TOP OF THE NOTCH STARTING FROM THE BACK, TACK WELD THEN BEND INTO PLACE WITH A MALLET USING THE HEAT OF THE WELD TO HELP BEND, COVERING THE OPEN SPACE ON THE TOP OF THE NOTCH AND TACK WELDING AS YOU GO (FIG. 4). THIS WILL LEAVE YOU WITH THE EXPOSED FRAME ON THE INSIDE OF THE NOTCH THAT YOU NEED TO CUT OUT (FIG. 5) ONCE EXPOSED FRAME IS CUT OUT PLACE PRE-BENT HOOP INSIDE AND CLAMP TO HAVE A TIGHT FIT. AFTER CLAMPING THE HOOP BEGIN TO WELD HOOP AND NOTCH TOGETHER. THE HOOP WILL HAVE EXCESS METAL ALONG THE SIDES AND ON THE BOTTOM OF THE FRAME THAT WILL NEED TO BE CUT OFF. ONCE CUT GRIND SMOOTH AND STEP NOTCH IS COMPLETE (FIG.6)

 

 

FIG. 1

FIG. 2

FIG. 3

FIG. 4

FIG. 5

FIG. 6

FIG. 7

 

 

3. PRE-ASSEMBLE ALL OF THE 2 LINK THAT YOU ARE ABLE TO WITH HARDWARE PROVIDED AND PREPARE FOR MOCK UP. NOTE: THAT YOU SHOULD NOT FULLY TIGHTEN THE NUTS AND BOLT THIS ALLOWS FOR FLEX IN THE KIT. PARTS THAT YOU CAN PRE-ASSEMBLE ARE THE LOWER BAG BAR, TRAILING ARMS, AXEL PERCHES, AND CROSSMEMBER SHOWN BELOW. MAKE SURE THAT YOUR TRAILING ARM JOHNNY JOINTS ARE THREADED OUT TO THE SAME DISTANCE BEFORE MOCK UP CONTINUES (THIS SHOULD BE ABOUT 1 INCH)

 

 

4. TO BEGIN THE MOCK UP SET YOUR REAR END AXEL ONTO JACKS CENTERING IT WITH THE PREVIOUSLY MARKED CENTERLINE. CONTINUE DROPPING AND LIFTING THE REAR END TO DOUBLE CHECK YOU ARE CENTERED IN THE NOTCH. ONCE CENTERED SLIDE THE PRE-ASSEMBLED 2 LINK FROM ABOVE UNDER THE CENTERED AXEL. USING A JACK, LIFT YOUR KIT UP TO THE AXEL AND USE THE AXEL PERCHES AS REFERENCE POINTS ON WHERE TO CLAMP IN YOUR CROSSMEMBER (SEE FIG. 7) ONCE THE CROSSMEMBER IS CLAMPED IN YOU WILL HAVE TO MEASURE OUT EACH SIDE OF YOUR FRAME EVENLY TO GET THE AXEL PERCHES IN THE CORRECT POSITION. AT THIS POINT YOU WOULD WANT TO CHECK THAT YOUR PINION ANGLE MATCHES THE TRANNY (SOME PEOPLE PERFER DOING 2 TO 5 DEGREES BUT THIS IS UP TO WHERE YOU SET YOUR MOTOR).

 

5. NOW YOU WILL HAVE TO MEASURE OUT YOUR SHOCK BAR. NOTE: THE SHOCK BAR IS A UNIVERSAL PIECE AND WILL NEED TO BE TRIMMED TO FIT YOUR SPECIFIC VEHICLE.  PLACE THE SHOCK BAR ON THE TOP TOWARDS THE REAR PART OF YOUR NOTCH. LEAVE ROOM FOR YOUR WELD AND ENOUGH METAL FOR STABILITY (FIG. 8).

 

6. NEXT ATTACH YOUR AIR BAGS TO THE LOWER BAG BAR ALONG WITH THE UPPER BAG PLATE WITH HARDWARE PROVIDED (FIG. 9). NOW SLIGHTLY EXTEND BAG (NOTE: DO NOT EXTEND FULLY) TO MEET UP WITH SHOCK BAR AND TACK WELD INTO PLACE.

 

7. NOW YOU WILL NEED TO PUT ON THE TIRES TO BEST JUDGE THE ANGLE AT WHICH YOU WOULD WANT YOUR SHOCKS. PUT AIR INTO YOUR BAGS, EXTEND THE SHOCK AND MARK WHERE YOUR TAB IS. ONCE YOU HAVE THESE MARKED ON BOTH SIDES YOU WILL NOW PLACE YOUR SHOCK TABS AT YOUR PERFERED WIDTH DEPENDING ON YOUR DESIRED ANGLE OF THE SHOCKS.  (½’’ AWAY FROM THE OUTSIDE OF YOUR LOWER BAG BAR IS WHERE WE HAVE THEM PICTURED IN FIG. 10) ONCE SHOCKS HAVE BEEN MOCKED UP FOR PLACEMENT REMOVE THEM AND CONTINUE TO PANHARD PLACEMENT.

 

8. NEXT YOU WOULD TAKE THE PAN HARD BAR WITH THE TABS AND TACK WELD AT PERFERRED RIDE HEIGHT (SUGGESTED IS 8 ¼’’ FOR OUR SLEEVE) AND PARALLEL WITH REAR AXLE TO THE STEP NOTCH. ALSO TACK WELD THE PAN HARD BRACKET TO THE AXEL ONCE THIS MEASUREMENT IS DECIDED (FIG.11)

 

 

AT THIS POINT EVERYTHING IS TACK WELD ONLY! NOTHING BUT THE STEP NOTCH OR C NOTCH IS A SOLID WELD!

 

 

9. YOU SHOULD BE AT THE POINT WHERE YOU CAN LOWER AND RAISE THE KIT TO DOUBLE CHECK THAT IT IS STILL CENTERED AND AT DESIRED HEIGHT. IF THIS IS ALL OK THEN YOU CAN GO BACK AND ACTUALLY WELD EVERYTHING THAT YOU HAD TO TACK WELD EARLIER AND REASSEMBLE YOUR REAR END COMPLETELY.

 

FOR ADDITIONAL HELP PLEASE CALL 1-951-784-4772 OR EMAIL JIMENEZBROSCUSTOMS@HOTMAIL.COM

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